Tokyo is overwhelming in almost every aspect. It encompasses 23 wards, 26 smaller cities, seven towns, and eight villages. The total population is about 13.6 million people crowded into 2,000 sq. km/800 sq. mi. Over 25 percent of Japan's population lives within commuting distance of Tokyo.
Tokyo has a bit of everything. It is a city of contrasts: buildings of stunning design stand beside miles of dreary residential and business structures; the ATMs of this world financial center close at 1800; extreme politeness and remarkable rudeness coexist.
This city has been described as a city of interiors. If the exterior looks drab, the interiors are often filled with an incredible range of cultural and aesthetic delights. It is crowded, busy, and expensive and filled with exquisite restaurants, extensive cultural and entertainment opportunities, in combination with a dynamic business environment matched by few cities in the world.
Finding your way in Tokyo
Tokyo addresses can be confusing at first. Since Tokyo began as a
collection of villages that grew and overlapped, becoming the
chaotic and amorphous city of today. There is no center; no
suburbs; and no zoning. The city is divided into areas of various
sizes in descending order: ku or ward, machi,
chome, and banchi. Specific addresses list a
combination of these areas. There are not many street names. The
numbers cited in addresses refer to districts within the areas and
their time of development, not location in relation to other
properties. Therefore, "15-22 1-chome, Chiyoda-ku" means the 22nd property that was developed in the 15th section of the 1st
chome of Chiyoda ward. A banchi could be added: "15-2" or even
"15-31," but the street where the address is situated will not have
a name. Since roads curve slightly, keep checking your map to make
sure that you're not straying from your route inadvertently.
There are usually large maps outside train and subway stations that show the chome and banchi numbers in the ku. Banchi numbers are posted on telegraph poles, walls, and gates of houses.
The only reliable way to get around Tokyo is by using landmarks, experience, questions, mapcards, and a bilingual reference that is detailed down to kus, chomes, etc. Tokyo Metro offers an app for iOS and Google Play users with directions to major landmarks.
Lost in Tokyo
Everyone gets lost; if you lose your way, try the following:
Haneda International Airport
Haneda International Airport (IATA code: HND) is 10 mi/16km
southwest of Tokyo. This airport serves Japanese domestic flights
and China Airlines, arriving from Taiwan.
Monorail is perhaps the best way to travel to the city center because of the very reasonable price and quick travel time. The train leaves from Haneda, and takes a little over 15 minutes to get to Hamamatsucho Station, in Tokyo.
Taxi trips to the city center are expensive. The ride takes 40 to 60 minutes.
There is an Airport Limousine Bus that travels to many areas and hotels from Haneda. For tickets and information on whether they travel to your hotel, inquire at their counter.
Rental cars are available. However, beware that driving conditions are very difficult in Tokyo. To drive, you will need an International Driver's Permit.
Narita International Airport
Narita
International Airport (IATA code: NRT) is located 44 mi /70 km
east of Tokyo. This airport serves nearly all international
flights.
The Narita Express Train is one of the best, most comfortable ways to travel into Tokyo, and by far, the fastest. The train leaves directly from the lower level of the airport. All seats require reservations, so book ahead or go to the NEX counter near the train terminal to purchase your ticket. Trains depart every 30 minutes during running times, and the ride takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Other train options for traveling into central Tokyo include the Rapid Sobu Line, Keisei Limited Express, Keisei Skyliner, and Keikyu Airport Limited Express. Plan 60 to 75 minutes for the trip. The first two aforementioned lines also serve regular commuters, and can be crowded during rush hours. Train prices vary based on distance, comfort, and design. The commuter rails are less expensive that trains that require reservations.
Taxi rides to the city center are available, but not suggested because of the prohibitive cost and the minimal room for luggage in the car or trunk. Travel time to the city center is one to two hours, depending on traffic and your exact destination.
If you are staying at a hotel near Narita Airport, your hotel may offer shuttle bus service. Inquire with your hotel, or the Japan Tourist Information Center. Most hotels in the city center of Tokyo do not run shuttles.
Various bus companies offer connections from the airport to a variety of places in and around Tokyo.
Rental cars are available. However, beware that driving conditions are very difficult in Tokyo. To drive, you will need an International Driver's Permit.
Connecting between Tokyo's airports
International travelers sometimes connect with domestic flights out
of Haneda Airport to continue travel within Japan. Tokyo's two
airports are 44 mi/70 km apart. Transportation between them is
available via the Airport Limousine service. The trip takes 60 to
90 minutes, depending on traffic.
Experienced expatriates point out that space in local private schools is limited, and new arrivals should make sure that their children have been accepted into a school before they decide upon a neighborhood.
Many of the cities or wards publish detailed handbooks in English for new residents.
Following are some of the wards called ku, and their neighborhoods within the Yamanote line that are most popular with expatriates.
Meguro-ku
Offering a suburban, traditional Japanese residential style,
Meguro-ku has lots of green space. Aobadai, Gakugei-Daigaku,
Gotanda, Naka-Meguro, and Toritsu-Daigaku are popular areas.
Jiyugaoka is another attractive part of this ward but is farther
from the center.
Several train, subway, and bus routes conveniently connect it to the city.
There are numerous schools in the vicinity, including Sacred Heart, St. Mary's and Seisen International Schools, The British School, and the International School in Japan.
Minato-ku
A large concentration of expatriates lives in Minato-ku, the most
expensive ward in Tokyo and one of the most convenient for
commuting. Especially popular areas are Akasaka, Aoyama and Azabu.
Other popular neighborhoods are Mita, Omotesando, Roppongi, and
Shirogane. Housing tends to be less spacious than in other wards;
homes with gardens are difficult to find.
Minato-ku is very international, and local services, shops, and staff are familiar with foreigners and their needs. There are a number of large U.S.-style grocery stores, including the popular Kinokuniya International and National Azabu supermarkets, both with U.S. household goods and packaged foods and parking facilities. The Nishimachi International School is in this ward. Major hospitals are located here, and the Tokyo American Club is located in Roppongi.
Although the American School in Japan borders this ward, it is about a 35-minute drive from most areas of the ward. School bus service is excellent, and almost all students use it.
Setagoya-ku
This ward also has a large concentration of houses rented by U.S.
expatriates. Communities popular with expatriates are Den
'en-chofu, Fukazawa, Kamiuma, Shimo-Kitazawa, and Shimouma. The
area is surrounded by parks and greenery and has a quiet, relaxed
atmosphere; the houses usually have yards.
Although the commute into the city is only 10 to 20 minutes by train, service is not as frequent as for other ku and expatriates may consider a car necessary in this area. Saint Mary's and the Seisen International schools are located here.
Shibuya-ku
Foreigners are increasingly choosing this ward-attracted by its
more traditional residential ambience and a larger supply of houses
in Yoyogi-Uehara and other areas. Popular neighborhoods include
Daikanyama, Ebisu, Harajuku, Hiroo and Shoto. The International
School of Sacred Heart (ISSH) is located in Hiroo.
The train and subways are conveniently located and run frequently; the commute into Tokyo is particularly easy.
The ASIJ Nursery-Kindergarten and Aoba International schools are in the area, as are The British School, Sacred Heart, and The International School in Japan. There is convenient bus transportation to Saint Mary 's and Seisen International Schools, and the American School.
Shopping and restaurants are located here.
Tokyo suburbs
Expatriates with limited budgets often select areas further outside
of Tokyo beyond the Yamanote Line, either to the west, out of the
Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro Lines, or to the east in the
Gyotoku/Disneyland area.
In Tokyo, all wards have an evacuation center, and many provide "preparedness" instruction with an interpreter in attendance. The Tokyo American Club and Tokyo General Agency have preparedness instruction for newcomers. Make sure your family knows what to do in case of a major earthquake. Prepare a basic emergency kit containing a flashlight, small portable radio, first-aid kit, drinking water, and emergency food supplies.
The Tokyo Metropolitan Foundation provides useful disaster preparation information for foreigners at its Intercultural Portal Site.
Subways and rail
Subways are safe, clean, and convenient. The fastest way to get around in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya, Yokohama, and Sapporo is by subway and commuter rail. Japan Railways (JR) loop lines circle Tokyo and Osaka. In addition, 10 lines cross Tokyo center, each of them identified by a color code, and connect with JR lines. Tokyo Metro provides a guide to the system, with a map, and a smartphone app with similar information.
Station names are displayed both in Japanese kanji and in Roman letters. Signs at stations are in English. A red sign on the front and sides of a train indicates an express; a blue sign, a semi-express; and a black sign, a local.
Commuters will find the rail systems extremely overcrowded during the morning and evening rush hours, approximately 0730 to 0930 and 1700 to 1800. "Pushers" on the platform shove the maximum number of people onto the trains. The first car of many trains is reserved for women, elementary school students, and passengers with special needs. Embarkation points for this car are marked with pink emblems on the platform.
Standing passengers in a crowded train are passive, and do not hold eye contact. Reading, sleeping, and using the Internet functions of one's smartphone are common activities. Passengers are encouraged to be alert and suspicious of unattended items. Any suspicious item or activity should be reported to subway personnel.
Tickets
Tickets are sold from machines. Instructions in English are available by selecting "English" from the top right
on the initial screen. Most machines take any combination of coins, and some take 1,000 yen notes and give change.
Prepaid magnetic cards and day and weekly passes are also available. Keep your ticket until you exit the station.
You will likely wish to purchase a Suica card. All except the most rural stations have Suica readers at the entrance and exit, and the fare will automatically be calculated and deducted. Suica can be charged at stations and convenience stores, and many convenience stores accept them as payment. Most buses also take Suica.
An English language fare calculator for Tokyo Metro is available. Fares are based on distance. If you are unsure of the precise fare, buy the minimum-fare ticket and pay the balance to the ticket-taker when you leave. If you change trains during the trip, remember the station where you did so. Commuter passes are also available.
Narita Airport
http://www.narita-airport.jp/en/index.html
Tokyo Metro Guide
http://www.tokyometro.jp/en/index.html
School-sponsored programs
Students are actively involved in organizing school activities that
are focused around sports or a cultural activity. In Japan,
baseball, basketball, soccer, swimming, tennis, table tennis,
badminton and volleyball are all examples of some the most popular
sports that are club oriented. Visual arts, music and drama are
available among other cultural activities. Some schools may require
that students join at least one club.
Most clubs generally meet after school hours. Students may be required to participate on weekends in sporting events with neighboring schools. Cultural events such as exhibitions, concerts, and performances are held throughout the year and during a school festival that is generally scheduled for the fall. At the beginning of the year each of the individual groups vie for their new members by displaying posters to encourage the students' interest and potential membership.
Scouting
There are various scouting programs available in Japan including
the Girls Scouts of Japan, which has existed in one form or another
in Japan since 1919. The Scout Association of Japan
established in 1913 has recently become coeducational, providing
social and scouting opportunities for the young people of Japan.
Sports
In addition to baseball, volleyball, basketball and tennis,
Japanese children enjoy field sports including track, and
traditional Japanese sports like judo and kendo, a
sport played with bamboo swords.
Swimming pools, seaside swimming, and sunbathing are popular during the summer months, in addition to camping and hiking. Skiing is also popular in the winter.
Out and about
There is a wide variety of activities for children throughout
Japan, which includes parks, playgrounds, museums, zoos, and
amusement parks – including Tokyo Disneyland. Large, complex
activity centers provide high-tech amusement, as well as crafts,
music, and toys. There is the Sony showroom that is open every day
with a wealth of electronic games, available to try out even before
they are for sale to the public.
Cultural sites
Tokyo is home to the National Museum of Science
and Nature, as well as several art museums, an aquarium and a zoo all in Ueno
Park. Legoland Discovery Center is popular with young children.
In addition to contemporary Japan, the ancient culture of this colorful country offers temples and shrines that house the amazing collections that reflect centuries of history and art. Keep in mind that you should have your children remove their shoes in the appropriate places, such as shrines and temples, as is the custom in Japan.
Many people enjoy a ride on the Bullet Train.
Japan Rail Pass
The Japan Rail Pass is available to foreign travelers that are
visiting Japan for sight-seeing purposes. It is valid for most
Japanese Rail ferries, buses, and railways and can be purchased for
7-, 14-, or 21-days. The two types of passes include the Green Pass
that permits passage in the superior-class cars and the Ordinary
Pass for regular service.
Japan Rail Pass cannot be purchased in Japan. For more details, click here.
Departos offer a vast selection of goods and extraordinary service. At many of the Tokyo flagship stores, you can often obtain an English-speaking shopping attendant at the information desk; other stores provide information leaflets in English.
Tokyo Union Church Women's Society
http://www2.gol.com/users/tuc/ws/tucws.html
TimeOut Tokyo: LGBTQ
https://www.timeout.com/tokyo/lgbt
GO TOKYO
https://www.gotokyo.org/